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How to Build a Kegerator out of a Refrigerator |
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Creating a great keg refrigerator isn’t all that difficult but it does require some planning. You
have to make some important measurements and drill a few holes so it is always
better to take things slowly, and understand exactly what you plan on doing before you do it. This will
ensure a clean, efficient project. Following the simple process detailed below should ensure hassle free assembly.
Know the Dimensions of Your Equipment:
- A standard _ barrel keg has a diameter of 17” and a 24” height (Coors’ kegs have a 17.5” height)
- The co2 tank is deceptively large. It has a 19” height and an 8” diameter.
1.) Measure Your Refrigerator
If your refrigerator cannot accommodate the dimensions of the co2 and the keg, you will probably have to use
a low profile tap. These taps release the beer at a 90-degree angle, rather than straight up, which saves some
valuable space. Another option is using a standard tap with a 90-degree connector piece.
2.) Placing the Faucet
Choosing the proper faucet position is crucial to ensuring a perfect pour. Generally, the best place to install the faucet is the center of the main
refrigerator door. It is crucial the faucet be at least 6” away from the freezer door to ensure proper clearance.
3.) Drilling the Shank Hole
It is important that the plastic on the door where the shank is to be fitted is flat.
I. A 7/8” drill bit is required to drill the shank hole.
II. A paddle bit will work for one time use, but drilling through the door will dull the bit.
The more expensive forsner bits are generally much better if you plan on using the bit more than one time.
III.Never use a standard 7/8” drill bit. The
whole will come out jagged and the shank will not fit. never force the drill bit. You are drilling metal,
it takes some time and patience. Let the bit do the work. Once you have drilled clean through the metal door,
always realign the bit with the plastic inside to make sure it is aligned with the hole in the metal.
4.) Kegerator Kit Assembly
Begin by screwing the shank through
your previously drilled hole. Tighten
the shank nut on the refrigerator,
so the shank is stable. The large,
black washer can be placed on either
side of the shank to disperse some
of the pressure placed on it during
the insertion.
5.) Attch Faucet
Once the shank
is securely in place, attach the faucet
to the shank with the shank wrench.
Using a black neoprene washer, tighten
the hex nut on the back of the beer
line to the back of the shank.
6.) Connecting Beer Line
Again, using
a neoprene washer, tighten the hex
nut on the other end of the beer line
to the top of your tap. Next, attach
to the (don’t know word) beer
connection on the top of the tap.
7.) Co2 Line
Find the co2
line. Slide one end of the line over
the co2 input nipple on the side of
the beer tap. Use an adjustable clamp
to secure this connection. Take the
other end of the co2 line onto the
co2 output nipple located on the regulator.
Use another adjustable clamp to secure
this connection. Tighten the female
hex-nut on the co2 regulator, to the
threaded male connection on the co2
tank. Reinforce the connection with
a plastic washer. Make sure the connection
is tight, as air can escape if the
two pieces are not flush together.
I. Find the shutoff valve at the beginning
of the co2 line. Make sure the valve
is turned toward “OFF.”
Open the co2 twist handle, and listen
to see if any air is leaking from
the connection.
8.) Installing the Drip Tray
Locate a spot that is at
least 10”, and centered below
the faucet. Use a level to level the
drip tray and mark the points where
the two screws will be inserted. The
next step is to drill the screws into
the marks. Because the screws provided
in your kegerator conversion kit are
self piercing, you won’t need
to use a drill bit. Using a power
drill, slowly screw the screws through
the metal. Once they have made full
entry, retract the screws completely
out of the holes. You will be left
with two complete holes. Align the
wholes of the drip tray to the holes
you have just created. Reinsert the
screws, attaching to drip tray to
the refrigerator.
9.) Supporting the Keg
Because the bottom of each refrigerator is usually different, you may have to make some modifications to ensure
your keg rests at a secure and level position. Use a level to check and see if your keg position needs to be adjusted.
If you keg needs to be adjusted, cinder blocks generally make a good leveling support if your compressor
compartment is slanted in the back.
Another option is to cut a piece of steel into a support shelf, and suspend your keg below the curved
bottom. Make sure to consider that a full keg weighs approximately 140 lbs.
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How to Build a Kegerator out of a Chest Freezer |
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1.) Getting Started
Because chest freezers have a higher insulation rating, they are generally the most economical way to build a kegerator.
However, the construction procedure differs slightly from the standard refrigerator.
2.) The most important questions to always consider are
- Will a Keg Fit?
- Will the Co2 Tank Fit?
3.) Installing the Temperature Controller
The temperature controller is an electrical override system. The controller monitors the freezers temperature. It shuts the
unit off when the thermometer reaches a certain temperature. There are two different options for installation:
I. The first, and far simpler method, is to simply run the thermometer up the back of the appliance, and bend the metal thermometer
to fit in the come The second option is a bit more invasive, but will generally yield more accurate temperatures.
II. The second method consist of drilling a _” hole
in the compressor compartment. It is important to make sure you only drill through the compartment, because
puncturing a freezers outer wall runs the risk of damaging the Freon cooling cables which line the outside of the
appliance. If these cables are destroyed, your freezer won’t freeze, so be careful. When drilling into the
compressor compartment, make sure you choose a space that is at least 6” from the floor of the appliance.
It is also generally more convenient to make sure you drill in the corner as opposed to the center of the appliance.
III. Once you have found a viable spot on the outside of the compartment, use a screwdriver to “punch” a small dent
in the metal. This will not only mark a position but also prevent you drill bit from moving around when you begin
to start the hole. Once you have made a dent, use a _” forsner or standard drill bit and begin making a hole.
IV. Once you have punctured the exterior metal, gently push the bit through the insulation.
If you feel any amount of heavy pressure, back the drill bit up, relocate and begin the process again. If your bit
is met with only slight resistance, continue to drill through the insulation and interior metal.
One the hole has been drilled, place the thermometer end of the temperature controller through the hole.
V. Secure the thermometer with the fasteners provided in the kit.
VI. Fill any remaining space in the hole with “great stuff” TM or some form of foam insulating caulk.
VII. Secure the temperature controller with Velcro or screws on the outside of the freezer. The unit can also remain free standing away from the compressor, but this is generally not recommended.
VIII. Plug the chest freezer into the temperature controller plug.
Set the temperature dial to the preferred temperature you wish to store your beer. Since beer freezes at about 28 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature around 32 degrees Fahrenheit is recommended.
IX. Finally, use a plastic cinch tie to bind the cords together.
4.) Installing the Faucet Tower
The faucet tower will be located at the top of your chest freezer.
I. Begin by finding the center of the freezer top, or wherever you prefer to have the faucet
located. Once you have selected a space open the chest drawer to make sure it is not above a light, or anything else that may be
damaged during the installation process. Once you have
deemed the space safe and suitable, use a circular saw to cut a 1-3” circular hole through the top of the metal.
II. Place the tower above the hole. Use a pencil to mark where the screw holes must be drilled.
III. Remove the tower.
IV. Using a power drill, insert the self-piercing screws provided in the kit where the pencil marks are. Once all four screws have
been inserted, gently back the screws out of the holes. Place the four black washers included in the kit over the
holes. Reposition the tower above them. Reinsert the screws with a hand held screwdriver. This should fasten the tower in place.
5.) Installing the Drip Tray
The last step to your kegerator installation is the easiest.
I. Simply remove the plastic cover from the self-adhering Velcro
II. Line the drip tray up to your desired height, making sure it is under the faucet.
III. Tighten the hex nut on the beer line to the threaded beer output on the tap. Again, make sure you se a thick neoprene washer.
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Our Guarantee |
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Our kits include comprehensive instruction manuals that will ensure your old refrigerator will be filling your
mugs with cold, draft beer in no time! Why keep using your valuable time making beer run, after beer run….
Order our kegerator conversion kit and enjoy knowing a cold one is only a turn of the faucet away.
All of our parts are backed by our service guarantee, and feel free to contact us if you have any questions.
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